McClatchy Newspapers Published: Friday, January 02, 2009
Young Cuban pioneers shout revolution slogans in a ceremony during the
"Victory Caravan" at the Revolution Square on Friday in Santiago de
Cuba, Cuba.Sven Creutzmann/Getty ImagesYoung Cuban pioneers shout
revolution slogans in a ceremony during the "Victory Caravan" at the
Revolution Square on Friday in Santiago de Cuba, Cuba.
SANTIAGO DE CUBA -- Although Raul Castro, the Cuban President, was the
man marking the 50th anniversary of the island's revolution with a
40-minute speech, most of the 1½-hour program served as an homage to his
brother Fidel, whose health is a state secret and has not been seen in
public since major intestinal surgery 2½ years ago.
But the 82-year-old former president continues to make his views known.
He writes occasional essays known as "Reflections," which are carried
prominenly in the government-controlled media.
He also remains as the head of the Communist Party, which the Cuban
constitution designates as the nation's supreme leader. His latest
offering -- a one-sentence salutation -- was published Thursday in
Granma, the party newspaper, in which he congratulated "our heroic people."
The official celebration in Santiago kicked off with historical footage
of battle scenes and was laced with the voice of a young Fidel Castro
delivering long, passionate speeches in the early years of the revolution.
The homage was complemented with music, dance and a series of
declarations, punctuated by chants of "Viva Fidel, Viva la revolucion,
Viva Cuba libre!"
"Resistance has been the order of the day and the key to our victory,"
Raul Castro told the crowd, which was limited to invited guests.
The elaborate gathering shown live on Cuban television was a stark
contrast to a tense calm that hung over the host city earlier in the
day, perhaps because shortly after the New Year began, authorities
banned Cubans from one of the city's busiest square.
The mood picked up in the late afternoon when streams of credentialed
guests gathered at Parque Cespedes chanted in unison during the orderly
affair. But once the crowd petered out to celebrate at home, heavy
security did not permit ordinary people to enter the plaza in
anticipation of the evening ceremonies to mark the anniversary.
Most Cubans had to hear what Raul Castro had to say on television and
privately many were unenthused.
"Nobody is out today because nobody wants to talk," said Orlando, a
gypsy cab driver.
"There's a fog over the whole city. They government officials are
celebrating while the people are screwed."
"They are celebrating this anniversary themselves, just like they chose
a president for this country among themselves," added Daly, a mother of
two."
It was 50 years ago that rebels came down from the mountains to oust a
dictator, only to institute one themselves. The revolution was welcomed
with enthusiastic praise, particularly in the countryside here, where
deeply entrenched poverty left many in squalor. Even Cuba's middle class
welcomed that Jan. 1 day when Fidel took to the town-hall balcony on
Parque Cespedes and promised to restore order to a war-torn nation.
But the decades of economic ruin and restricted freedoms have taken
their toll.
Most people in Santiago respond with a polite smile when asked about the
latest celebrations. Some tout the important accomplishments such as
health care and education for all, but many others point their heads at
the cop on every corner, an indication of a conversation that will not
take place.
"They set up those chairs in the plaza for who? -- the high command,"
said Eduardo, a teacher.
"Because they know no one will be out celebrating 50 years of the same,
50 years of going backward instead of forward. This has been the reverse
revolution."
Eduardo acknowledged that Santiago, an eastern city that served as the
nation's first capital, has traditionally backed the Cuban government.
Many Afro-Cuban residents, particularly the elderly who suffered
discrimination, applaud the Castro brothers for opening up educational
and professional opportunities to people of all races and socioeconomic
classes.
"I am sure that even now there are more Santiagueros who support the
revolution than in any other part of the country," Eduardo said.
"But even the older people and the black people know ... they know what
this has been and they have suffered because of it."
Cubans deeply resent strict controls, which prevent them from legally
supplementing woeful salaries that average US$20 a month. They say the
government has cracked down harder on black market business they need to
survive.
Life got even harder this summer after a series of devastating storms
ruined many people's homes and livelihoods.
"They are organizing this big celebration for those who can celebrate,"
said Yolys, a teacher.
"I bought a new dress for New Year's Eve but that means not having money
to buy rum."
"For most of us, it's like that. We'd rather be celebrating a different
system, one where I could speak freely and buy the clothes I like, not
just the ones I can afford."
As the woman looked at herself in the mirror at a nightclub washroom and
adjusted her tight jeans and tank top, she stared at her image for a few
moments.
"Look older than 32, don't I? I look at least 40," she said.
"It is the life here. That's why I go out to places like this hoping to
find a foreigner to fall in love with me. Don't get me wrong, I would
not marry a fat disgusting guy. I want a nice one, one who can offer me
a better life."
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