By CNN's Monita Rajpal, April 5, 2007.
HAVANA, Cuba (CNN) -- I've been in Havana for more than a week and
what's evident is that life here isn't focused on material wealth.
Most Cubans don't earn -- or have -- a lot of money, but what they do
have in abundance is an amazing energy.
And they know how to have fun.
To many, Cuba is known as the isle of rum and salsa. I'm at the Havana
Club for a dance lesson. Its tasting room is a reminder of the drinking
establishments that made the city famous in the pre-revolution 1930s.
My teacher is Darien Fernandez Valdivia, a dance professor at the Havana
Club.
Dance variations exist and when it comes to salsa, Cubans have a style
all their own.
For me, we're starting with the basics.
It's more difficult to do with the music and when you're trying not to
count out loud.
The word salsa means 'sauce' in Spanish, and in reference to dance it is
flavor or style. The music is a fusion of African, Cuban and Latin
American rhythms.
the Cuban steps are known as Guapea. The simplified version that I've
been learning involves the eight-step count and there are variations for
those more advanced.
Is it enjoyable? Yes. But salsa is also a way for ordinary Cubans to
make a living.
Juan Ernesto Santana Hernandez teaches dance in a private home. Although
he has not had any formal dance training, he says the intimacy of home
tuition attracts tourists.
It's a family atmosphere, and part way through my lesson, others are
invited to join in.
Luz confides that she is 78 years old, and accepts my invitation to dance.
There is a similar family atmosphere in some of Cuba's restaurants but
more from necessity than choice.
Since the 1990s, Cubans have been permitted to serve meals from their
homes, in restaurants known as paladares.
They're heavily taxed by the government and involve long working hours.
Unlike state run restaurants, they are governed by strict rules.
Paladares must employ family members, only 12 seats are allowed and they
are forbidden from serving seafood or beef.
Elizabeth Montero's restaurant -- essentially tables in her back room
and patio extension -- serves traditional creole fare.
For many Cubans, eating out is rarely affordable, but a meal for two in
a paladare can be bought for as little as 10 cuc -- the currency Fidel
Castro created mainly for tourists. It's roughly $10.
I met photographic producer Lucky Look at another paladare called La
Cocina de Lilliam. He's been to Cuba 74 times.
"The thing that I've learned is that where we live we have so many
things for communication, like cellular phones. But here they do not
have so much. There's more communication between people. They meet each
other," he says.
"They talk about life, about their family, how they feel. Where we come
from, it's difficult to know who the person living just next door is.
That's why I love just to be here because when you walk you can feel
free inside."
"It is so difficult to find one country where everybody is so happy. But
here they don't have so many things, but they feel so happy inside
themselves. That's why I always come here."
And, like many other tourists, Look says he'll keep coming back to Cuba
despite the restrictions because of its people, their friendliness and
their charm.
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